Otherwise eBay or Alibaba are your options, just be prepared that if you are purchasing from overseas that you might get stung for shipping or import taxes and duties which could cost as much as the laser cutter itself. If you are in the United States, then definitely go down the Amazon route, as you’ve got some buyer protection. I purchased mine from eBay, which in hindsight was probably the wrong choice, but I was strapped for cash and didn’t really know what I was doing so stupidly purchased the one with the most “upgrades” not realizing that these were mostly shiny bells and whistles that I didn’t need, and in the case of these, the simplest on is probably the best. I strongly suggest reading this buyers guide before making any purchase. When it comes to the actual laser cutter, I’m not going to suggest a particular seller, as I don’t want to take any responsibility for your purchase, as sellers pop up and disappear all the time, like you get for the cheap clones of popular 3D printers in kitset form.
You are not going to get a $4000 Glowforge for only $300, it’s not going to work correctly out of the box (unless you are incredibly lucky) nor are you going to end up with a $10,000 commercial laser, but with a bit of tinkering, a lot of patience, some wasted practice materials and some decent beer for your sanity, you’ll end up with a project that works, can pump out a tonne of useful things, and you’ll learn a lot in the process. Which means, we are using it for something that isn’t it’s intended use – but it’s not like that’s stopped wargamers before!īasically, it’s a crapshoot when you purchase one of these – and that’s something you need to be aware of before reading any further. The legend goes that these Laser Cutters were originally created for engraving Japanese Hanko stamps ( A rubber seal that is used in place of a signiture in Japan, of which the average person has four different ones – Ginkōin (銀行印), Jitsuin (実印), Mitomein (認印) and Sanmonban (三文判) depending on the purpose), which is why they have an incredibly tiny clamp in them that is useless for absolutely anything except this purpose. There is no single manufacturer or official design spec for these, and they are all slightly different, but work on the same or at least very similar principles, a blue sheet metal box, containing an (allegedly) 40 watt laser (but usually closer to 30 watts), using roughly similar controls (some are analogue, some are digital), and with roughly similar connections. So what is a K40 Laser Cutter/Engraver? The “K40” Laser is a catch all term for the blue (and sometimes red), water cooled Chinese made lasers you find for around $300-400 USD on Amazon and Ebay.
LASERDRW K40 FREE
If you see something that should be changed, improved or updated, feel free to email me or comment at the bottom of the page. I’ll aim to keep it updated as I learn more, things go wrong, things get fixed and things get upgraded, as is usually the case with these cheaper Chinese made products. Hopefully this will become the essential resource or wargamers who are looking to purchase a K40 style laser cutter with everything all in one place. It’s been a massive learning curve, and there’s plenty of things that I wish I knew going in, things I would have done differently, and other tips and tricks that I’ll aim to put together in one resource to make it easier for those who are looking to add a laser cutter to their list of toys (in addition to FDM and Resin 3D printers) for miniature and tabletop wargaming. A month of so ago I purchased myself one of these big blue “K40” style Chinese laser cutters from Ebay, and over the last few weeks I’ve been working towards getting it usable for cutting and engraving MDF and Acrylic plastic for a wide variety of miniature wargames products: from Tokens and Templates to Terrain. As an Amazon Associate will earn from qualifying purchases.
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